E1

The 27th of July 2008 was a turning point in my climbing. I finally ticked my first E1. Due to the lack of wind we (jamie and me) decided to hit cummy as it is always good weather there. We arrived and headed straight to Orange Wall. Apparently in recent years Jamie is probably one of only a few people to actually lead here due to the nature of the rock so I am quite happy to add my name to that list. I decided to play the head pointing game on this one so I could make sure my 2 bits of gear were good before committing. After 4 or so goes on it I decided to man up and get on with it. About 2 minutes or so later it was done with minimum fuss which for me is pretty impressive. I dare say I even enjoyed it. Anyway so there we have it, Flakey Wall E1 5a* has been ticked. We are heading back today so I can top rope a good looking E2.

Stewart.

When Stewart met Dave

For my birthday my parents gave me a session with mr Dave MacLeod down in the fort. After waiting for the summer months to arrive and for uni to finish, myself and my sister headed down for the session. Dave had conveniently found a new boulder and we decided to visit it for the start of the session.

We did a short warm up on a slab and then got to it with some new problems which I think Dave will add to his website when he returns from America. The first of the problems was a nice wee roof, no idea what the grade is maybe V2 to V3 nothing to difficult but good fun. We followed this with another two problems, one of which I will return to finish off at some point.

From this boulder we moved to skelton boulder to try a route there and after failing at the sit start I gave the standing start a bash. I managed to get a couple of holds from the top but started to get tired and got a bit psyched with the exposure and the drop off down the slope so whimped out. At this point I was nailed and after a couple more attempts we headed indoors to kimbers wall to cover the basic movement techniques dave had covered early in the day.

At this point I thought I should probably cover some of the actual coaching dave did.

The main points to come out of the session where movement, foot work and reading the rock. All things I needed serious help with lol. He showed me some really good techniques with such excellent names as the head butt and discus. I have been putting them into practice and they are really good. I think some people are lucky and can do them naturally, unfortunately I cant so it was nice to be taught them. All in all it was a cracking day that I have taken a lot from and I am actually trying to put into practice. This includes me even doing proper training sessions down the wall (shock horror I know).

Anyway thats enough of my ramblings, I will add photos once I get them from my sisters camera.

Stewart

Jungle Bashing Part 1

The 2nd of July 2008 was probably one of the most exciting days climbing I have had which is saying something. I was able to tick off "Get your name in a climbing guide". Myself and Mr Jamie Murray went jungle bashing and were rewarded for our efforts by the climbing and mountain gods (who incidently are probably one of the same). We uncovered 2 new walls with some real potential. On a purely selfish stance I aint going to tell you were it is until I have climbed all the routes I can at it but we thought it was important to document the ones so far. So here we go.

All the routes were onsighted ground up with no inspection.

[Yet to be named] - HVS 4c

Lead: Jamie Murray 
Seconded: Stewart Munro 
Date: 2nd July 2008

At the right end of the crag climb the wall to the right of the well defined crack (bouldery) to gain the big chimney above, finish direct.

Spitting Games - Hard Severe
Lead: Stewart Munro
Seconded: Jamie Murray
Date: 2nd July 2008

Climb the right hand side of the obvious spike to small ledge. Follow diagonal rising crack that trends right to the top and then over short bulge to top out.

[Yet to be named] - HVS 5b (could well be E1)

Lead: Jamie Murray
Seconded: Stewart Munro
Date: 2nd July 2008

Boulder problem start up overhang onto ledge, take the obvious exit crack above to thin topout.

[Yet to be named] - Severe
Lead: Stewart Munro
Seconded: Jamie Murray
Date: 2nd July 2008

From the recess, climb the flakes diagonally right then follow the obvious and enjoyable diagonally left rising layback flake to the top.

Further reports will follow with pictures.