Tuesday, 12 August 2008

First E1 Onsight

Just a short one this morning. Was up at Loch Duntelchaig yesterday and managed to onsight Anne Boleyn's Crack E1 5c. After basically headpointing anything above HVS for the last wee while I had forgotten about the added "excitment" of onsighting. After a tonne of the usual encouragement from Jamie I just got on with it, slapped a cam in the crack and went for the ledge.
I always find it amazing what you can hold onto when you think you are about to fall off. Whats even more amazing is the fact that I didnt get any elvis leg, I suspect this is because I didnt worry myself about putting gear in due to the "tactics" being involved.
Anyway, heading back out today so lets see how the day unfolds.

Thursday, 7 August 2008


I was in the process of writing up an entry for yesterdays climbing at Loch Tollaidh on the west coast were I climbed 2 E1's (Deliver me (sp??, could be deliver us) E1 5a and Path E1 5b) but after yesterdays success and a tip off of a good E2 at Tynrich I was psyched to get out today. After managing to convince jamie (wasnt really that hard once he realised I really wanted to give E2 a go) we headed for Tynrich and the plod up the hill. Incidently we firmly believe that the path is not over grown because of us.
We arrived at the slabs, set up the anchors and looked at our respective targets. Jamie was looking at his project but for more info I will direct you in his blogs direction. My project was to be Trumpet of the Dead E2 5b. I did my usual of looking at it and worrying about the lack of gear but as with the new stewart I cracked on and cleaned some holds. Once we got on the top ropes I basically linked it first time and knew from that point that no matter how bad the midges got (they were really bad) that I was getting up that route. After some work on the crux sequence I hopped on it and dispatched it first time pretty smoothly and without much fuss. I love this head pointing game.
Now our climbing rules clearly state that once you have climbed 3 of a grade you have to step it up. I have pin pointed my next E2 which is another 5b so another one is required before I can work on my first E3 which is my new summer aim. Which aint bad considering I was aiming for HVS.
So just to recap on my year so far. I started on a hard severe i think at easter time basically and in early August I have climbed my first E2, I personally dont think thats to shabby bearing in mind my first E1 was less than 2 weeks ago and my only HVS to date was an onsight.
4 E points in 2 days will do me nicely. I am off for a shower and a beer.
Bye for now